The Problem with Feeding Cities: The Social Transformation of Infrastructure, Abundance, and Inequality in America, by Andrew Deener. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2020; 328 pages, $32.50.

The restaurant industry is one of the more visible economic sectors being devastated by the pandemic. Many well-known establishments — often locally owned institutions — are closing their doors for good as a combination of dine-in restrictions and tightened budgets have people eating out less, cooking at home more, and leaning on grocery stores more than ever.

Ironic, then, that this rapid-fire attrition follows a much slower, but still damaging, winnowing of

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